General History & Information
Buckland Monachorum
has had a church in the centre of the village for at least 700 years. The
list of Rectors and Vicars begins in 1271, but the presence of a Saxon (or
perhaps early Norman) font is good evidence of an earlier foundation. Records
exist to indicate that in 1305 the Abbot of Buck land was ordered to build
a house for the vicar at Lovecombe near the village, and to annexe 40 acres
of land for his use.
The first church
building, probably made of wood and dedicated to a Celtic Saint, has left
no trace and would have been replaced by a stone construction at a later
date. Very likely, this would have happened in the 14th century during the
time of Bishop Grandison, a keen builder of churches in the Exeter diocese.
Masonry from
that earlier stone church, which is thought to have been cruciform in shape,
was used during erection of the present building about 1490. Pieces of stone
from the ancient Thorverton quarries in East Devon are built into the Tower
among the local stones. The Normans used Thorverton stone, but not their
successors.
The church we
see today, in architectural terms, is a Perpendicular building. One can
recognise this style by the tall upright bars in the windows, reaching up
to simple stone tracery. It is a style that dominated church building during
the late 15th century, and more than a third of England's Parish Churches
are Perpendicular in part or whole. Devon is a county where the style particularly
dominates. When Buckland church was rebuilt, new walls were put up to enclose
the Nave, as it now exists, and a new roof was provided. The old walls,
probably with Early English Lancet windows, were pulled down and replaced
by the arches we see today. The two eastern arches are significantly lower
and of a different shape than the others. It has been suggested that their
pillars have been raised up on a base to give all the capitals the same
height, but a more recent study opines that it is the floor level that has
been altered
The dedication
of the church is to Saint Andrew, possibly the choice of the monks at the
Abbey. Buckland Abbey and the village church existed in close relationship
and the last Abbot, John Toker, became Vicar in 1557. (The dissolution of
the Abbey took place in 1539). Reminders of Saint Andrew can be seen in
different parts of the church, in the mosaic of the altar reredos, in the
east window, and on the Church wardens' staffs of Office.
Apart from the
base of the stone cross outside in the churchyard, the roughly made Font
in the north-west corner of the church is by far the most ancient thing
to be seen. In style it is called a 'Tub Font' and has always been regarded
as Saxon or Norman. Discovered in the ground during repairs to the church
in 1857, it was used in two other local churches before finally being returned
to Buck land in 1936.
A study of the
Font was made in 1977, comparing it with other fonts of similar age and
design. This pointed out that it now looks more symetrical than is the case,
due to being set on a modern stone base. Originally, it would have been
sunk several inches into the floor to keep it firm, when the lopsidedness
would have been more obvious. Roughly hewn from a single block of granite,
the font's irregular shape may be either the result of unskilled workmanship
or the shape of the original block. We can deduce from damage to the rim
that it was once covered with a lid and staple, indicating that it was still
in use by the 13th century when the then Archbishop of Canterbury ordered
fonts to be locked to prevent holy water from being stolen. Baptism of infants
became common practice in England from the 8th century, and Buck land's
Font represents a transitional stage in design from a hollow tub, used for
the immersion of adults, to a bowl raised on a stand, more suitable for
babies. A glance inside will reveal that the working part is only about
12 inches deep. After the 15th century rebuilding, the font was considered
too crude and old-fashioned for the improved building, but because it had
been used for Holy Baptism, it was buried under the church to safeguard
it from profane use. There is a second font close by the church entrance,
octagonal, and of a date corresponding with the age of the present building.
It shows traces of colouring, and what appears to be a capital letter T
on the side facing the Nave. A glance round the back will reveal two faces
carved with their tongues out; possibly to discourage evil spirits.
Looking East,
an important feature of the church that attracts attention is the Chancel
Arch which is remarkable for being lopsided. The supporting pillars do not
correspond and there is undressed stone on the north side. There are competing
suggestions as to the reason for all this, including the need to give a
better view of the South (Drake) Chapel when the arch was raised, the Chancel
extended, and the Chapel restored in Stuart times. The Chancel got its wagon
roof at this time. The roof over the Nave, which is supported by five splendid
arches on either side, is notable for its attractively carved oak figures
of angels; a fascinating orchestra of sixteen figures, each playing a different
musical instrument to the glory of God. Centrally placed is a boss depicting
two special figures thought to be our Lord and His Mother, Mary, or perhaps
a King and Queen? This curious carving was taken down for cleaning in 1959
and put on display during a period of extensive repairs and eradication
of beetle attack to the roof timbers. All these figures may be seen more
clearly by using the electric light time switch, which the visitor will
find in the south-west of the church.
On the wall
of the south aisle is a list of known incumbents, three of whom held the
Living for over 60 years. Perhaps the most remarkable of these was Joseph
Rowe who, between 1646 and 1708, served during the later part of the Civil
War, the Commonwealth and then continued, like the Vicar of Bray, throughout
the reigns of Charles II James II, William & Mary, and on into that of Queen
Anne. His slate tombstone on the church porch wall gives his age at death
as 98, but other sources suggest it was 90.
Compulsory retirement
was unheard of in the 18th century, and Rowe's ministry was by any standards,
an astonishing achievement of unbroken service and longevity. During times
of great national and religious upheavals, Rowe kept his flock together
and successfully held onto his Living when others were dispossessed. He
must have been a tough, shrewd, and resilient person.
Reference has
already been made to the Drake Chapel on the south side of the Nave. It
gets its name from the family called Drake, descended from Thomas, brother
of Sir Francis Drake, the famous Elizabethan seaman whose two marriages
produced no children. Sir Francis bought Buckland Abbey in 1581 and when
at home he must have visited the church. An embroidered reproduction of
his Coat of Arms can be seen on the wall and a large pew bearing a carving
of the Golden Hind, (which used to stand in the chapel) now occupies a place
near the older Font.
Behind the chapel
altar and now rather difficult to see, is a huge monument once despised,
but now recognised as an outstanding example of the work of John Bacon,
the 18th century artist whose monuments also appear in Westminster Abbey
and St. Paul's Cathedral. The subject of this particular monument is General
Elliott, who successfully defended Gibraltar during the long siege by Spain,
from 1779 to 1783. As Baron Heathfield, he is buried at Heathfield in Sussex.
He had married Lady Anne Drake, and their son inherited the Buckland Abbey
estates when the last surviving male of the Drakes died childless.
The monument
to Francis August Elliott, second Baron Heathfield, which was designed by
John Bacon Junior, can be seen on the wall next to that of Francis Henry
Drake, whose estates he inherited. At a time when this country's fortunes
were at a very low ebb, General Elliott's defence of Gibraltar became a
symbol of steadiness, courage and endurance. The amazing details depicted
on his memorial well repay careful scrutiny. In order to position the memorial,
a door and a window of the chapel had to be blocked up and their outline
can be seen from outside. The faculty was granted on condition that a new
door on the south wall was made. This little door is still there but not
used nowadays.
On the north
side of the chancel was another chapel, but this is now filled with the
organ and its pipes. By tradition, this chapel was known as the Crymes (or
Crapstone) Chapel. These names are used by virtue of the family of Crymes
who held the Patronage of the church from 1646 until the 18th century. Their
house, called Crapstone Barton, (now a farm) stands higher up the village.
To the east
of the organ lies the vestry, a much older part of the building. Above the
entrance door, in a recess (once a window), are the Royal Arms of Charles
II, commemorating his return from exile in 1660.
The first organ
was installed in 1849. Previously, according to an inventory of 1805, a
violin, cello, flute and bassoon had provided music. It seems astonishing
that a small village could have produced enough people to play the various
instruments, but evidently it did. Church bands of this kind are said to
have had a stimulating effect on musical life in the countryside. They made
up in vigour and enthusiasm for what they may have lacked in skill and polish.
In 1848, the last bill for strings was paid, but a new era was beginning.
The following year, Sir Trayton Fuller Drake provided the first organ. It
was built by the Exeter firm, R Dicker, (sadly no longer existing) to the
design of Dr. L.G. Hayne, brother of the then Vicar (one of the other two
long serving incumbents). Dr. Hayne can also lay claim to recognition as
the composer of the very familiar tune set to the hymn 'Loving Shepherd
of Thy Sheep' (A&M 444). The melody is known as 'Buckland'. The organ was
renovated in 1876, and again in 1922, by Heles of Plymouth. A second manual
was added in 1936, the 15th Stop was replaced in 1951, and the instrument
was completely rebuilt in 1966, when a redesigned casework was provided.
Buckland Church
contains examples of the work of three distinguished late 18th century and
early 19th century sculptors, the two Bacons (already mentioned) and the
younger Westmacott who designed the tablet to Dame Eleanor Drake on the
south wall of the Sanctuary.
Dame Eleanor
was the wife of Sir Trayton who gave the organ. An interesting and agreeably
worded 18th century monument to Amos Crymes Vicar, is fixed opposite on
the north wall. Visitors will notice that the Transepts are of different
widths. There would have been chapels in the small, pre-15 century cruciform
building. The south transept contains signs of an altar and there is part
of a piscine (a niche once intended for Holy water in which the priest could
wash his fingers), plus an aumbry (a small recess in which the Eucharistic
vessels could be kept.
The church Tower
is 70 feet high and contains eight bells. Its design led to a long running
problem which began when the first bells were installed. Many Devon towers
of a similar slender design have pinnacles surmounting them. These are sometimes
quite large and at Buckland the style reached its limit of practicability.
From a structural point of view it sacrificed strength for elegance. At
first there were four bells, but when in 1723, another two were added, it
was asking for trouble. Repeated ringing weakened the tower and in 1735,
major repairs became necessary. The church wardens involved at the time
were Joseph Wills and Thomas Reed. Their initials are visible at the top
of a lead rainwater pipe outside the west wall of the nave.
In 1858, it was
discovered that the wooden bell cage had rotted and that someone had misguidedly
driven wedges between the timbers and the walls of the tower. This had caused
fractures in the tower as a result of incessant vibration. Not until 1905
were the bells re-hung in a new wood frame, and a tablet in the church commemorates
the event. In 1947 the bells were re-cast and re-hung in an iron and steel
frame and two treble bells added making a ring of eight. A ringers' gallery
was provided in 1961. Church bell ringers have always practised their art
and skill with enthusiasm, but records reveal that in 1815, their fervour
overcame their judgement and good sense. It seems that although forbidden
to have the key to the belfry door by Mark Tucker, Clerk and Schoolmaster,
they managed to enter the church late one evening and rang throughout the
night. Understandably the village was not pleased, and for their "mutinous
and riotous behaviour" they were dismissed.
The beautiful
appearance of of the church tower today is the result of extensive renovation
and structural repair carried out in 1980, using traditional methods and
materials. For 500 years despite inherent weakness, it has stood as an important
landmark and its bells rung by today's dedicated team of men and women continue
to call the faithful to worship every Sunday.
The stained glass
of this church is modern, apart from some small figures and monograms in
the tracery of the east window. Some old books state that the east window
contains scenes from the life of Saint Andrew, but if this is so,there must
have been an earlier window than the present one, in which we see only a
small figure of Andrew in the tracery. The Chief Lights depict the four
Evangelists with their symbols and Our Lord as the Good Shepherd, centrally
placed. The design of this window is said to have been influenced by William
Morris and Burne Jones. On the south side of the sanctuary is a triple display
showing Christ on the Cross flanked on either side by the Holy Family and
the women at the sepulchre. The south transept has four Lights illustrating
Abraham, Moses, Peter and Paul, together with two scenesfrom the life of
each, whilst in the north transept there is a group of British missionaries,
including Saint Boniface who was born in Devon. Finally, at the west end
is a window showing four Old Testament characters associated with the building
of the Temple in Jerusalem. Note the tiny wheatsheaf in one of the lower
corners the mark of Charles Kempe, the Victorian artist. He and Tower are
credited with this window (date, 1907) and also the south transept window
(date, 1901). Kempe alone designed the north transept window in 1880.
Outside, near
the entrance gate to the churchyard, is the restored cross commemorating
Queen Victoria's Diamond Jubilee. The visitor's eye is naturally directed
first to the shaft with its simple cross, but of far more significance is
the three stepped base on which it stands. The stones of this are very old
indeed. they are part of the original Preaching (or perhaps Market) Cross
that onec stood on the village green, now occuppied by cottages. When it
was decided to restore the cross, not much of the original was left. The
restored version, with the same base blocks forming the pedestal, was removed
to its present position. The name Victoria, and the dates, 1837-1897, were
cut in a conspicuous place so that the great antiquity of the base is often
overlooked. today the shaft has a very simple surmounting cross, placed
there in recent times, but some old photographs show it to have once had
an impressive, four sided, canopied head. This, according to records, contained
the figures of Saint Andrew, Saint Bernard of Clairvaux, founder of the
Cistercian Order of monks to which the Abbey belonged, and two coats of
arms. It seems that this was taken down during repairs, and removed for
safekeeping. Sadly it has not been seen since and its whereabouts remains
unknown at present.
The church plate
of Buckland Monachorum contains some late 17th century and early 18th
century pieces, which are on view in Buckland Abbey. The church records
begin in 1538 and are kept in the Devon County Record Office,Plymouth.
For further
information on St Andrew's Church, click on the link below:
www.bucklandchurch.com
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